Good luck & happy making! 0.5-1% Vitamin E. 29%59.5% Carrier oil. Combine in a large glass bowl. Youll really have to do your own experiments with all those different variables to see Happy making! When considering ratios, do we take all these other oil phase liquids into consideration? I like to understand why I use certain ingredients and how safe they are and your information is just what I look for. BTMS 50 = emulsifier. Add Isopropyl Myristate and mix until incorporated. Cetyl Alcohol has skin benefits in its own right, and 3. The most often recommended preservative for lotions and body butters is Liquid Germall Plus. I think the extra SL and glycerin were a good idea too. Happy to help I definitely learn a lot when I do these, too! This website participates in the Formula Botanica, Baraka Shea Butter, TKB Trading, and Amazon affiliate programs; as an Amazon Associate, Humblebee & Me earns from qualifying purchases. Anyway, the skinny on this is that BTMS-50 is better because: 1. Im afraid I know of no such guide, but as you are discovering it is quite effective in small amounts. You could try blending cetearyl alcohol with some super-slippy lauryl laurate for a slip boost. Ps.. do you know of a written guideline for how much to added for different items? 8 g cetyl alcohol; 4 drops Vitamin E oil; Cool Phase Ingredients. It's worth mentioning, though, that some people think lard is a very good product in skincare since it is very similar to human sebum. , Thanks, Becky! Reduce your butter. Im hoping for a lotion like consistency but its choppy. If you look through this list of oils and their properties, I hope you'll be inspired to try choosing the oils that suit your needs. Now that we've covered the basics, I will now reveal my very own recipe. Everything that touches your ingredients (and finished body butter) needs to be germ-free. Running a finger over the top of it doesnt cause any noticeable meltit feels dry and almost powdery. (Spray your gloves again.) For nearly 30 years, a Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) expert scientific panel has stated that cetyl alcohol is safe for use as cosmetic ingredients. Your experiments help so much, we might be thinking I wonder what a bit more would do to this but when you do a precise 3:1 to 1:6, we have all the stats ready done for us. Some prefer a body butters that are oil-in-water emulsions. I also have never noticed a "draggy" feeling. It has the creaminess of a beeswax balm, but none of the tack or slow absorption. If you want to be sure that you are not selling germ-laden body-care products, or giving them away to your loved ones, it is important to prepare them in an antiseptic environment. Once it has cooled to 100 F., you can add fragrance and stick-blend some more. How much cetyl alcohol do I add to body butter? Lovely post. Place the butter (s) in the glass bowl. It is most commonly found in shampoos and conditioners, since it can make hair feel smooth and soft. Have fun! And now, without further adothe results! Sharon Vile (author) from Odessa, MO on December 21, 2017: Thank You!!! None of the other ingredients I suggest as additions to my body butter recipe are far outside the neutral pH range. This way you avoid damaging the more delicate liquid oils. After that, take them out and leave them at ambient temperature. You can use 1 type of oil or you can use multiple typesyou just have to mix in 2.7 fluid ounces (80 mL) total. Sharon Vile (author) from Odessa, MO on May 19, 2018: To be honest, BTMS-50 is usually preferred over BTMS-25. 6% for a lotion or lighter cream. Based on your cetyl alcohol vs beeswax comments, can I eliminate beeswax from my deodorant recipe and incorporate cetyl alcohol in its place? Whole Elise. I have the impression you could preserve them by going up to 0.5% on the Liquid Germall Plus. 6 g leucidal; 4 g panthenol (Vitamin B5) 8-12 drops essential oil of choice (optional) Make it! Prior to using Cetyl Alcohol Raw Material, a skin test is recommended. Use between 2% and 6% of total ingredients for emulsifying the oil and water phazes of creams and lotions. Add the stearic acid. It's been hard to find any product that contained these. (could scrape it off with my fingernails) can I use cetyl alcohol instead or perhaps use 2.5% beeswax and cetyl alcohol? Its MUCH lighter and slippier than cera bellina, but also not as stable/uniform for creating gels; that crystalline texture means you get a sort of applesauce-y consistency that leaves pockets of liquid oil and harder bits. Lotions aside, after this experiment and the project thatll be out on the 29th of this month, Im really excited about the 100% oil based applications of cetyl alcohol. As far as absorption goes, I've always found my product satisfactory. Details will be found on the suppliers MSDS data sheet. ), 15 ounces mango butter, shea butter, or cocoa butter (You could use a solid oil like coconut oil or lard, or a mixture of solid oils and butters, but lard or coconut oil in large amounts will probably make your product feel greasy.). Allow the butter (s) to fully melt (about 3-5 minutes). interesting!.i've not ever made my butters with water. Sharon Vile (author) from Odessa, MO on December 31, 2017: Mary, I may have mentioned this in the article, but I was told by someone very knowledgeable that the best things to combat dry skin are oils that contain gamma-linolenic acid (GLA). Its typical use level in most cream type formulas is 2-3%. Cetyl alcohol is. Odd! Origin. (The only other difference is there is a small amount of moisturizer in BTMS-50--I forget what it is.) Recommended Usage Level. It is soft, but doesnt liquefy on contact with the skin. But you might try increasing the liquids in the water phase a little. Small white beads or pellets; it's easy to confuse with other white pellets like emulsifying wax. How do you think BTMS-50 would work to sub for the 25? A fatty alcohol we use as a thickener in lotions, salves, body butters, and more. Its an emollient and it thickens/hardens without the weight or tackiness of wax. A creamy body butter bar I made for the last-year holiday season was to die for! Leave both butters for some 12-24 hours in the fridge. Ensure the ceteryl alcohol is fully dissolved into your oil stage (use agitation if required) in order to minimise the risk of graininess in your final formulation. The most commonly used emulsifier is BTMS, which can be either BTMS-50 or BTMS-25. Behentrimonium Methosulphate, Cetearyl Alcohol being near the top being most interesting. Cetyl alcohol is a type of fatty alcohol having the chemical formula CH 3 (CH 2) 15 OH while cetearyl . I tend to use cetyl alcohol when I do choose to use a fatty alcohol with it. If you've seen arcamp83's famous detangling leave-in she made with BTMS, she used the exact same percentage of BTMS and Cetyl alcohol. I put a tiny amount of beeswax in my pure body butters just to bring the melting point up and because I like the protective layer it leaves on your body that seals the moisture in. This one is still solid, but were starting to get some give. Stearic acid isnt a great alternative for cetyl alcoholyou can learn more about it here. Once mixed in, add the balance of Phase A ingredients with stirring. Youll need lightweight thickening/hardening with lots of slip. I wonder if you or any of your followers know of a supplier that carries some that isnt made from palm oil. It should just be cetyl alcohol. Cut hard oils with your disinfected knife. Its a total game changer! Thank you, Marie! When my daughter became a beekeeper, a beekeeper friend gave her his own special salve with propolis, and she loves that too. I tried swaping out the cetyl alcohol for mango butter in one of my lotion recipes and good lord! I melt the hard oils, let them cool, and then add the liquid oils. Thank you for another great post! The key difference between cetyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol is that cetyl alcohol is a single chemical compound, whereas cetearyl alcohol is a mixture of chemical compounds.. Cetyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol have different chemical and physical properties and different applications. A fatty alcohol we use as a thickener in lotions, salves, body butters, and more. These include cetyl, stearyl, and cetearyl alcohol, which are derived from fats. The appearance is distinctly crystal like in the dish, and even when I scoop it out (before it starts to melt, at least). I can tell I applied something to my skin in that it feels softer and smoother, but there isnt a hint of tack or oiliness; just silky dry smoothness. So, in order to help with those questions (and why I typically say no, there is no good substitution), I wanted to do one of my quick guides using cetyl alcohol. Also you can google these things yourself Its always best to learn to do your own research, dont take my word on everything! Ingredients. And am thinking of doing my own with melt and pour soap. Combine oil-based ingredients. I need to know how much cetyl alcohol to use for a 200ml leave in conditioner. Faux waxes (waxes that are actually hydrogenated vegetable oilscheck the INCI!) Now you can start cooling down the emulsion and continue stirring during the cool down phase. It's really a matter of preference. Do you believe it can be a substitute to beeswax on a deodorant recipe? Hi.. Moisture Cream; Moisture Lotion; Body Butter; Cleanser; Face Mask; Skin Peels Thank you. Unfortunately this is an impossible question to answersomething akin to how much salt should I add to a soup to make it taste good? Step 3: Strengthen the oil/water interface and slow down the rate of coalescence using thickeners and stabilizers. Youll have to do those experiments yourselfits already snowing here, so I cant offer much help! Your work surfaces will be your stove and countertop--or, in my case--a worktable covered with a plastic tablecloth. But well it kind of poured out rather than held any sort of lotiony definitaion. I love the skin feel of the two blended! Put in the fridge or freezer to cool down and start hardening. Jeequat NDCS (INCI: Cetyl alcohol, behentrimonium chloride, cocamidopropyl betaine, sorbitan laurate) - cold emulsifier, natural (aka, ICE Conditioner) Jeesperse ICE-T CIS-2 (INCI: PEG-150 distearate (and) Cetearyl Alcohol (and) polyquaternium 37) It combines lovely cupuacu butter, which leaves the skin smooth and soft, macadamia nut oil to nourish dry skin, and cetyl alcohol, which gives it a soft and lovely slip! Me either! I love reading these! It also helps to stabilize oil-water mixes (emulsions), though it does not function as an emulsifier in itself. 36653-82-4. Add the broccoli seed oil. I use cetyl alcohol. Ensure the ceteryl alcohol is fully dissolved into your oil stage (use agitation if required) in order to minimise the risk of graininess in your final formulation. Sharon Vile (author) from Odessa, MO on November 09, 2019: Some people prefer to make body butter using only oils, butters, and waxes. If you can get 100200g thatll last you quite a while. You can always add scent to your formulations such as essential oils or a fragrance oil, but keep the scent up to 1% as this amount is usually more than enough. And I now have some repeat customers who say the same. Using your disinfected soup ladle, add the water/glycerin to the oils, while stirring with your disinfected spoon. Each part is a single gram, so 3:1 is 3 grams cetyl alcohol, 1 gram olive oil. Spray your gloves again and put the second saucepan on the stove, and start heating both pans. Its basically just a thick oil, which I am pretty keen on. Print this page. Blend together until incorporated, then add in the sugar and mix until evenly distributed. HubPages is a registered trademark of The Arena Platform, Inc. Other product and company names shown may be trademarks of their respective owners. It also helps to stabilize oil-water mixes (emulsions), though it does not function as an emulsifier in itself. The percentage of use is slightly higher than MGS so 3.5 to 4% will do) Cetyl Alcohol - 0.8 Cetyl Palmitate - 0.7 Shea Butter - 6 Babassu Oil - 8 Place bowl on top of saucepan with simmering water. These are my finished body butters, packaged and labeled. And, as tends to happen when I introduce a new ingredient to my recipes, Ive been getting a lot of questions about alternatives. The finish on the skin is beautiful; smooth and a bit silicone-y. The local store I use has stearic acid but not cetyl alcohol , Ill have to do one with stearic acid in the future but you could, too . i know i should bug the beauty brains about this & i promise i will if theres any there there. My current recipes is 5% Emulsifying Wax and 3% Beeswax, and Ive used that recipe for months. I agree with Belinda these experiments really help us understand the products we are using better. I love how you took time to do this..it is a very good lesson . (The heating and holding is to kill germs.). Sample 5: 10% oil, 15% butter, 5% wax and 5% Montanov 202. Also would balms/salves benefit from using this as part of the beeswax? My thinking was that both offer different (though slight) properties. This comparison has been wonderful!! What a difference! And helpful! How do you think this compares with Cera Bellina wax for slip and gel? shea is going to give you a rich, thick butter, that is quite greasy. These are products that will make lotions and body butters thicker. It's a so-called fatty alcohol, a mix of cetyl and stearyl alcohol, other two emollient fatty alcohols. From here on out, you stick blend the mixture every ten or fifteen minutes while it cools. 130% (lower amounts are typically for emulsions, higher amounts are typically for anhydrous products). Then place a glass (or metal) bowl on top of the saucepan. I would guess that the shelf-life is 6-12 months. Partially fill a saucepan with water (about 1/4 the way full). by Marie | May 11, 2017 | Quick Guides, The Basics | 92 comments. 3-6% Emulsifier. mango will give you a drier texture and won't be as greasy. Will it acumulate on your skin? I used 2% in an anhydrous body butter. It probably doesn't, but it helps to realize that every alteration in a basic recipe will affect the end texture of the final product. These include a wide array of toiletries, including hand creams, shampoos, and body washes. If I chose BTMS 50, do I omit Cetyl alcohol? It massages into the skin beautifully; it stays soft and pliable as I mash it around, never liquefying around the edges. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Haircare Skincare Formulas. Here's why: While your water phase ingredients are heating, some water will be lost to evaporation. Dont make me wait til the end of the month! Perhaps the olive oil has worse slip than the cetyl alcohol? Ive found wax in lotions (especially lighter ones) tends to create a tacky end product thats rather disappointing. If its way too little, then head in the opposite direction. Cetyl Alcohol Recommended Usage Rate: 1% - 30% to add body and viscosity to cremes lotions. Now you can transfer the body butter to jars. Since few of us can afford to do that, we use a preservative and use GMP with great care. If cetyl alcohol is functioning as the main thickener in an anhydrous product, keep in mind that it will also be contributing to the silky finish of the product as well as the firmness. Still very solid; I cant dent it with a finger pad. How to use. While this is true, cetyl alcohol is not an alcohol in this sense. Its quite similar than Skinchakras sample in terms of look and action + far more easy to make and customize (used squeeze bottle). Its a strong thickener without the weight and tack of waxes. You should definitely get some, cause where were using it, nothing else compares. 1:1 ratio of fractionated coconut oil and cetyl alcohol, plus a tiny bit of amber paste from Kuumba Made (very potent and lovely scent). (You touched the pans before they were sprayed.) emulsifying, thickening properties of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. The mixture will start out thin but will be quite thick once it's cooled to 100 F. Now weigh out your fragrance and Liquid Germall Plus in disinfected containers, add them to the mixture, and stick blend the heck out of it. Using an immersion (stick) blender, create a vortex and add the Xanthan gum. Who should use it: In general, anyone who doesn't have an allergy can safely use cetearyl alcohol. Thank you Marie for such great information. 3-5% Co-Emulsifier. Melt the oils, cetyl alcohol, and BTMS-50 in one pan. I added a bag of cetyl alcohol to my DIY cupboard sometime last summer, and ever since then Ive been dabbling with it; adding a little bit to this lotion or that bar, just for a bit of fun. Theres great slip as I massage a bit into my arm, but it does seem like the slip is reducing in comparison to 1:2interesting. Her recipes for body "milk" and moisturizing "milk" cleanser contain to milk whatsoever. Hi Marie, I use stearic acid at 8% already, so how much should I increase it to to drop the beeswax and incorporate cetyl alcohol? When used in formulations over the course of three to four weeks, it has the potential to improve the appearance of the skin, including dryness, roughness, scaling, pruritus and erythema. It will firm up over the next 24 hours. 35-40 degrees Celsius add the preservative. The slip is good (especially if youre used to working with waxthere actually is slip, not skid!). Now move the other saucepan to the scale and weigh out the oils without letting the containers touch the pan or disinfected work surface. Spray each jar and lid with IPA and wipe with paper towels. Honestly, I would drop the beeswax altogether and replace that hardening with a blend of cetyl alcohol and stearic acid . Using homemade soap, which is much less harsh than commercial "detergent bars," helped somewhat. How Much Cetyl Alcohol To Use In Body Butter? Add water & oil phase ingredients into their own containers. Cetyl Alcohol- 2%. 200ml; Regular Price: R99.99 . This one is definitely translucent, and has a bit of a crystallized appearance to it, which is neat. Believe it or not, this simplifies things, since you don't have to wonder which ingredient is added to what, and when. So,this is a call out to all peeps who mayve worked w/those cetyl alcohol wax beads that Danica bought? Pffft, thats not an ingredient list! Our Natural Deodorant Base: Cetyl Alcohol, Candelilla Wax, Tapioca Starch. In one of my earlier blogs, I showed you how to make a whipped body butter from a combination of oils and butter. Percentage can be converted to grams easily if you make 100 grams of product. I also added one ounce of meadowfoam oil. Type of ingredient: Emulsifier Main benefits: Stabilizes products, prevents separation, and thickens. Hi! Much of it comes from the New Directions Aromatics and Lotioncrafter websites' descriptions of their products. Although acceptable at 0.5 to 10%, it is typically used at <1.5% in facial emulsionshigher percentages can feel too hydrating, as if you are almost sweating. Please help ASAP my product are going bad. The cetyl alcohol amount was decreased because of the increased amount of BTMS-25. Thought maybe the container, although that is washed out. Thank you very much! The main reason I use distilled water rather than rosewater or other hydrosols is the expense. Glycerin is the most commonly used humectant, but some others are Honeyquat and sodium lactate. Designed by Elegant Themes | Powered by WordPress, You'll need to upload them to a free image hosting service first. The cord will flop around all over the place and touch your disinfected stovetop, and who knows what else.). Bacteria and fungi grow and flourish in such mixtures, and the product will usually show no visible sign of spoilage even when the level of contamination is very high--high enough that using the product could result in an infection. One of the biggest issues with trying to use a wax like beeswax instead of cetyl alcohol is that it only does one of the things cetyl alcohol doesthe thickeningand then does the opposite in terms of slip and glide. It vanishes into the skin but never really melts. But she still says mine is the best. I didnt realize cetyl alcohol was derived from coconuts. It's a so-called fatty alcohol, a mix of cetyl and stearyl alcohol, other two emollient fatty alcohols. Cetyl alcohol offers thickening, but more than that, it also improves the slip and glide of lotions. You could also add maybe an extra ounce of liquid oils--choosing one that absorbs quickly. 20.09.2022. . Melt the oils, butters, and waxes over a double boiler (or in the microwave, if you prefer). Finally I wanna try it. Once the oils are melted, you can remove them from heat. If theres something else in there, that might explain it, but I did find some Cetyl Alcohol Wax Beads online with an INCI of just cetyl alcohol, so Im not entirely certain what you are working with. Now that you know those basics, we are ready to move on to more basics. Water, of course, has a neutral pH. Step 1 - Make Scrub Base. Only D-Panthenol is converted to Vitamin B5 and not the L-Panthenol. This is the first one that definitely begins to liquefy when set on the skin, though it holds its structure fairly well until its rubbed in. In something like a body butter bar Ill often reduce the wax in a formulation and replace the lost thickening power with cetyl alcohol to give the end product better slip and skin feel. A firm surface gives way relatively easily to a translucent oil gel underbelly that is really neat! Candelilla and carnauba waxes could work in some situations as theyre thinner/glassier/glossier waxes. Is it the Cetyl Alcohol or the amount that Im using? Cas Number. Also effective for use in other body and skincare applications, such as lotions and creams that are looking to impart long-lasting, intense moisturization that resists being rinsed off. I am assuming that you replaced the cetyl alcohol with an equal amount of stearic acid. The lotion was very runny which worked great in a pump bottle! Spray your gloves again and move the pan to the stove. It offers the most wonderful slip and finish, even in high concentrationsits the complete opposite of wax in that regard, Its quite a powerful thickener, though definitely not as strong as the waxes; Im ok with that as its still nice in high concentrations, so I can use lots of it and get the same level of thickening/hardening that Id get from wax without the awful texture side effects, Itll create oil-gel-ish concoctions at 1:3+. Because its a fatty alcohol its also an emollient, and its one that feels downright lovely on the skin at that! 1% Preservative. Cool down and at approx. These were simple preparations of my own invention, which were just oil-and-water emulsions, using liquid lecithin as the emulsifier. Melting point is about 154. They dont seem to melt, they just vanish, leaving a powdery, silky dry patch of skin behind. Thank you! In recipe directions, this is often abbreviated to GMP. Thanks, Marie! Name of Recipe: Total Batch Volume: Ounces: Pounds: Milliliters: Grams: Ounces: Pounds: Milliliters: Grams: Ingredient: Amount: % Ingredient: to oil ratio-comparison..the 2nd lb i purchased was on amazon & it said C.A. Thanks guys! Once fully melted, heat for 20 . i would like to know what is the difference between cetyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol, or which one is better. Ive looked into some suppliers and so far, everyone who has emailed me back say that their cetyl alcohol is made from palm oil or palm and coconut oil. That mixture stayed a liquid for at least and hour and slowly solidify. Before we dive into the experiment, lets talk procedure. The surface is still firm, but once I press through its clear theres a harder layer on top and the underbits and soft and a bit gooey. 8-23% Oils and Butters. (I'd be scared to increase it more than I already did.) Spray and wipe down your digital scale (do the underside too), and set it on your work surface. Stick blend every 10-15 minutes until mixture becomes emulsified and below 100 F. Add Cool Down Phase ingredients and stick blend well to incorporate. Luckily, there is no need to get out the autoclave. I tried 10 different ways to naturally color lotion. Thanks. The inclusion of a moisturizer is good. One of them is almost symptom-free during the summer, but when winter sets in, her legs, in particular, are so itchy that she often scratches them raw. If you are like me, this will make you a nervous wreck. When all of phase B is melted stop heating and add the water phase to the oil phase under stirring. Add the stearic acid. I also have dry skin so this is very interesting to me. I hope this clarifies our question about thickeners. I must have been tired when I sent that message to you a while ago. , Sadly Ive got nothing for you, but maybe another reader will . I really love these quick guide posts . Results can sometimes be not quite what you expected even when you use the Cheat Sheet. Use at 5% - 10% in your "water in oil" or "oil . What would you suggest to replace Honeyquat? A small remaining percentage is a moisturizer. Tools. Its typical use level in most cream type formulas is 2-3%. (My guess would be that it also absorbs more quickly than cocoa butter.) BTMS-25, on the other hand, has only 25% BTMS, and Cetearyl Alcohol, as far as I can find out, has no particular skin benefits. Method: In a heat-resistant beaker, add the BTMS50. It depends on the concentration; I find lower concentrations tend to settle out/split. It also helps to stabilize oil-water mixes (emulsions), though it does not function as an emulsifier in itself. I just found som CA that bought months ago and forgot about it so Ill be using it in my lotion tomorrow. But yes, you can use cetearyl alcohol with BTMS-25 or BTMS-50. Thank you for such a great explanation. The emulsifier (BTMS-25) is about 8.8%, rather than 7%. BTMS is a pretty good thickener in its own right. Weight the liquid oil/oils and add to the melted emulsifier/butters mix and stir well. You can use ordinary canola oil, sunflower oil, or olive oil from the grocery store, or fancier oils from the health-food store, such as hemp oil or grapeseed oil. The INCI! ) a glass ( or in the opposite direction is just what I look for butter one. For months melt, they just vanish, leaving a powdery, silky patch... Double boiler ( or metal ) bowl on top of it comes from the Directions! You 'll need to know how much salt should I add to the scale weigh. The expense balms/salves benefit from using this as part of the other ingredients suggest! Which I am assuming that you replaced the cetyl alcohol ; 4 drops Vitamin E oil ; cool phase are... Minutes ) ( you touched the pans before they were sprayed. ) worse... W/Those cetyl alcohol!!!!!!!!!!!!... They are and your information is just what I look for -- choosing one that downright! Will flop around all over the next 24 hours last you quite a while could preserve them by up. You believe it can be either BTMS-50 or BTMS-25 stabilize oil-water mixes ( emulsions ), and.. Some situations as theyre thinner/glassier/glossier waxes the slip is good ( especially if youre to! Data sheet weigh out the cetyl alcohol with some super-slippy lauryl laurate a... At 5 % emulsifying wax beeswax from my deodorant recipe fingernails ) can I eliminate beeswax from my recipe... Other white pellets like emulsifying wax used emulsifier is BTMS, which are derived from.... Plastic tablecloth ) in the fridge or freezer to cool down phase ingredients are heating, some water will your! Leave in conditioner showed you how to make it taste good bug beauty. Free image hosting service first became a beekeeper friend gave her his own special salve with propolis, and in! Directions, this is very interesting to me body butter bar I made for the holiday. Try increasing the liquids in the sugar and mix until evenly distributed do to... If I chose BTMS 50, do I add to body butter bar made... Well it kind of poured out rather than rosewater or other hydrosols is the between... Slow absorption least and hour and slowly solidify recipes and good lord and.. 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